Luxor

Luxor is the place to be if you want to soak in the most ancient Egyptian monuments in the country. You could easily spend days or even weeks exploring this town. Stroll through the impressive columned halls of the grand temples on the east bank of the Nile, like the Ramesseum, or venture into the pharaohs’ tombs in the Valley of the Kings on the west bank. Watching the sunrise over the Nile or the sunset behind the Theban hills are experiences you won’t forget.

The landmarks in Luxor are spread across both sides of the Nile. On the east bank, you’ll find the city of Luxor, the Luxor Temple, various museums, and the impressive Karnak temple complex.

Thebes, known in ancient times as Waset, really came into its own during the Middle Kingdom (2055–1650 BC). It was the 11th-dynasty prince Montuhotep II (2055–2004 BC) who brought Upper and Lower Egypt back together, made Thebes his capital, and boosted Karnak’s status as a key religious site for the god Amun by building a temple for him. Even though the 12th-dynasty pharaohs (1985–1795 BC) shifted their capital back north, a lot of their wealth from trade, agriculture, and military campaigns in Nubia and Asia still flowed into Thebes, keeping it as the spiritual heart of Egypt. This 200-year stretch was one of the wealthiest in Egyptian history, marked by a boom in architecture, arts, and scientific advancements.

 

Later, it was the Thebans, led by Ahmose I, who kicked out the Asiatic Hyksos after the Second Intermediate Period (1650–1550 BC) and unified Egypt. Thanks to his military successes and as the founder of the 18th dynasty, Ahmose was worshipped in Thebes for centuries. This marked the start of the New Kingdom (1550–1069 BC), a time when Thebes really thrived, housing tens of thousands who helped build its impressive monuments.

 

One of the biggest contributors to Thebes was Amenhotep III (1390–1352 BC). He expanded the Karnak temple complex and constructed his grand palace, Malqata, on the west bank, complete with a large harbor for festivals and the largest memorial temple ever built. Sadly, not much of that temple remains today, except for the famous Colossi of Memnon, which are the largest single stone statues ever made. His son, Amenhotep IV (1352–1336 BC), later known as Akhenaten, moved the capital to his new city, Akhetaten (Tell al-Amarna), focused on worshipping just one god (Aten, the sun god), and introduced significant changes in art and architecture. After he passed away, the powerful priesthood quickly regained influence under his successor, Tutankhamun (1336–1327 BC).

When European travelers showed up in the 18th century, Luxor was basically just a big village in Upper Egypt. It was more famous for the 12th-century saint, Abu al-Haggag, who was buried near the Luxor Temple mound than for its ancient ruins. But then Egyptomania kicked in. Napoleon rolled in back in 1798, aiming to bring back Egypt’s former glory, and with the release of the Description de l’Egypte, he sparked a renewed interest in the country. European exhibitions showcasing mummies, jewelry, and other amazing artifacts from Theban tombs—often discovered by treasure hunters instead of serious researchers—turned Luxor into a hot spot for travelers. By 1869, when Thomas Cook brought his first group of tourists to Egypt, Luxor had become a must-see destination. Mass tourism was officially here, and Luxor was back on the global map.